The First National Lead Selection Comp
The purpose of these lead selection comps for adults is to provide a basis for accurate selection for adults to compete in IFSC international events. The first one coming up being the African Cup, held next year in Reunion in Feb 2011. We then plan to have other international events such as another team coming here and South African representatives going to the World Championships in Italy in July 2011. The World Youth Championships take place in Austria during the same year. After some debate we decided that these other events may be too far ahead of time to be decided by events now, but the selection for Reunion will most certainly be decided based on these results. The general idea is to appoint a selection committee that will be given the results and the selection criteria document (still to be drawn up) and the selection will be made from there.
We were a little apprehensive about this lead comp. We had no problem with the venue (The Barn) as it has proved itself with many great comps in the past such as the school nationals last year. The main problem was that our resources were exhausted from the NBL final. However new reinforcements in the form of Lourens Inggs, Schalk Erasmus and Sherae Jardien . While Lourens and Schalk worked on the route setting, Sherae produced scoring maps and score sheets for the scorers. Patrick Black joined forces the next morning with his complex Excel scoring program. (It had crashed during the NBL Adult Male Semi-final two days ago ).
The event started with the elimination rounds. Both the men and women had one climb to climb and those who were successful went through. To keep to IFSC rules, the setters had to climb these routes first in front of everybody. For once the setters were under pressure, but they fared well. The women’s line was easy with most of the competitors getting through. The men’s line was a different story- but most of our strong competitors cranked through victorious.
Then the comp went forward smoothly with elimination occurring on each round as they went along. The competitors kept moving between different isolation areas and the climbs. The women’s final was close. Candice made a final desperate lunge to make contact with one hold further, and sealing first place. In the final, Illona and Rachelle tied. But working back to earlier rounds scores Illona was placed second and Rachelle third.
The men’s final was even closer;
On the final line all were climbing across the finishing roof on a very long sustained line.
Climber 1: Marijus moved off from holds 22 and 21, but did not get near hold 23.
Climber 2: Paul touched hold 22 from 20.
Climber 3: Mathieu lunged from hold 21 to touch the bottom of hold 23 but he would never have held it.
Climber 4 :Benji clipped off from holds 22 and 20 and started to move to hold 23
The final results were determined by the rules set and explained at the beginning of the comp. Mathieu first, Benji and Marijus tie second and Paul fourth.
Many thanks to Lourens Inggs, Schalk Erasmus, Sherae Jardien and Patrick Black for all their hard work. Thanks also to all the others who helped to score and belay.
The final results are as follows:
1 Candice Bagley
2 Illona Pelser
3 Rachelle de Charmoy
5 Briditte Laurant
6 Sterna Scholtz
7 Brumilda Badenhorst
1 Mathieu Schneuwly
2 Marijus Smigelskis
2 Benji de Charmoy
4 Paul Bruyere
5 Wesley Black
5 Heinrich Kahl
7 Jared Miller
8 The Flex
9 James Barnes
10 Dewald Kloppers
11 Duncan Fraser
12 Greg Borman
13 Damien Chatteris
14 Robbie Fraser
15 Mathew Gibbon
16 Danie Louw
17 Stijn Laenen
18 John Wessels
19 Andrew Visagie
20 Nick Gear
21 Con de Waal
Notes on scoring and IFSC rules.
The normal way of scoring works is: if a climber holds and weights that hold he gets that grips’ score. (If it is grip 22, he gets 22 points.) If he moves off this hold, normally interpreted as the other hand letting go of the previous hold and this other arm making some progress towards the next grip, it is interpreted as a “+” score of that hold. Thus it is now a 22+. If then the climber moves off hold 22 and touches hold 23 he would normally get 23-. However, if hold 23 was a big hold and he touched the bottom of it then he doesn’t get the ‘-‘ . The wording in the original IFSC 2010 version of the rules is “Only such parts of an object which are usable for climbing shall be considered when determining the score of a competitor.” Whether he could have held it is irrelevant, it is merely whether he touched the useable part of the hold. This is a judgement call by the judge. This is a difficult call, and thus video recordings of all major comps especially the finals are essential so that the event can be reviewed to make an accurate judgement.
Regarding technical incidents: When something beyond the climbers control occurs which is detrimental to him/her. (Examples of this are belay problems, upside down biners on draws, and most commonly loose grips.) In this comp there was a technical incident. Both Marijus and Paul had a loose grip (number 20) which was on the coffin feature. The correct way to handle this is for the climber to immediately call down the problem when it occurs. The judge should immediately ask if they want to take the technical incident, and the climber has the opportunity to decide. If the climber chooses to take the incident, they must be lowered down at once. The climber must wait in isolation again for a time period predetermined by the judges. (This is normally between 15 to 20 min).The climber must try again from the bottom. If the climber chooses not to take the technical incident he must climb on. Marijus and Paul chose this option. We can only assume that their thinking was that their second attempt may be not as good. As this was the last climb of the comp, and all the lines were long and pumpy. The bottom line of a technical incident is; if you feel you will do better on another attempt, take it immediately, because it will be to your advantage.
Passing clips: The rules have changed a number of times and whilst we try to word it to cover all eventualities. The old rule that you are never allowed to pass a clip with your feet had to be modified because the climbs are never so simple and straight up. When heel hooking or climbers facing the other way occurs it does tend to complicate things.
The current wording in the IFSC rules is relatively simple and will hopefully not lead to any problems:
1. Where the competitor’s entire body has not moved beyond the karabiner at the lower end of the quickdraw; (as in a straight up face climb) or
2. Where the competitor is able to touch any part of the quickdraw with any part of his/her body; (where the climber is upside down or the wrong way around on a roof he may reach back and clip it even if he has passed it) and
3.The Jury President has ruled that for safety reasons a particular quickdraw shall be clipped from a marked hold or earlier and the competitor has not moved beyond that marked hold. (as with the case in the Schools U17 National final where the third clip had to happen off a given hold before the dyno for safety reasons. One climber was so focused on getting the dyno that he forgot to clip and he had to be called down)“
The climbers score is normally recorded as the last grip they held onto before passing the clip.
For more details on the latest IFSC rules click on this and download the 2010 rules.